Schlagwort-Archiv: on ship

At Sea to Colombo, 1 January 1893

In the morning the captain and the older officers of all charges paid their respect and delivered the official new year’s greetings. Then our dignified boatswain and the master gunner visited me to the same purpose in the name of the crew. After church service (mass), with the issuing of the orders of the day, promotions of the crew were proclaimed.

Today I finally succeeded to catch a flying fish on the bridge.

The humidity of the air is increasing despite the ongoing Northeast Monsoon so that the psychometric difference amounts to only one degree.

Links

  • Location: Arabian Sea
  • ANNO – on 01.01.1893 in Austria’s newspapers. On the cover of the Wiener Salonblatt is Archduke Leopold Ferdinand, fellow traveler on Franz Ferdinand’s trip who is soon to be sent home due to persistent misbehavior. The weekly account of the trip in the Salonblatt dated 21 December tells the stories of Franz Ferdinand’s adventures in Port Said.
Archduke Leopold Ferdinand

Archduke Leopold Ferdinand

At Sea to Colombo, 31 December 1892

The wind blew fresh from Northeast and cooled the temperature down a bit. A large number of flying fish swarmed around our fore, often covering considerable distances to do so. Multiple gannets flew by quickly.

To the New Year’s Eve party, I had invited all staff of the ship. Again, an improvised game of luck on the aft had to be at the center of the party in which the most incredible objects served as prizes. Hilarity and humor covered a lot of defects, especially the tropical warmth of the champagne. The ice reserve on board was totally depleted and replenishment had not been possible, as on the one hand our ship’s cook found that all reserves of ice in Aden were sold out and on the other hand our ice making machine had broken down in Steamer Point and had not been repaired yet. So instead of cool drinks, a warmed up brew had to be served, namely punch made for us by our chief medical officer.

After the ship’s clock had announced the twelfth hour and the New Year shot fired, we welcomed the new year first with the people’s hymn and then to the sound of the Radetzky march with a shout of three times Hipp Hipp Hurra, which all men joined in too.

The good old moon and the nearly cloudless starry sky illuminated the scene on deck. All congratulated one another most cordially, and again many new year greetings filled the air while many intense thoughts were sent through the silent night towards home.

Links

  • Location: Arabian Sea
  • ANNO – on 31.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Freie Presse presents a recap of the scandals in France under the title „The republic of talkers“. There are still cases of cholera being reported in major European cities.

At Sea to Colombo, 30 December 1892

In the morning, we catch sight of the island Socotra and pass it at noon about 15 miles north from the east end of the island. The view of the island reminds me of the coastal region of the Red Sea. Noticeable are only the snow-white sand moraines that almost look like glaciers from a distance. This island, 7,770 km2 large with around 4,000 inhabitants, has been ruled by the sultan of Qishn. England entered into a subsidies treaty with it in 1876 and then turned it in 1886 a treaty into a British protectorate. Socotra has once been offered to our government for sale. But I think such a purchase would not have been a good investment, as one can see no vegetation apart from a few coconut palms and only as a coaling station and a prisoner colony could it have had any meaning for us.

The impressive sunset was followed by an enchanting night. It was balm for the soul to breathe in the fresh Monsoon on the bridge.

Links

  • Location: near Socotra, in the Arabian Sea
  • ANNO – on 30.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Freie Presse informs about the approaching date next month of the wedding in Berlin of Princess Margarethe, the youngest sister of the German Kaiser. It also lists the prominent deceased of the year, separated into categories of nobles, priests, officers, diplomats and ministers, scientists, professionals (civil servants, teachers, doctors and lawyers), poets/writers/journalists, theater/music, painters/sculptors/architects, and technicians/manufacturers/merchants.

At Sea to Colombo, 29 December 1892

Against head wind we kept the same Eastward course. Two sperm whales were observed.

Up to now, we could allocate only a few hours to study travel literature. Today was given almost entirely over to this useful activity. As quickly as we are getting closer to countries afar which are on our itinerary we are eager to prepare appropriately and educate ourselves.

In the travel library, there was no lack of choice among the rich variety of books even though its composition had to take the restricted cabin space into consideration. Besides publications, rich in scientific spirit, that serve the traveller as sources are handbooks essential for tourists as well as works that successfully combine a captivating style with scientific content about the countries and peoples. Finally, there is light reading in the genre of travel literature that are sometimes glossy and feuilletonistic in its accounts. Maps and plans of all kind complete the literary inventory.

Many of these listed books I have already studied at home, almost in a presentiment of my future activities. In the same measure I owe instruction and pleasure to Sievers’ „Asien“, to Reclus’ „Nouvelle Géographie Universelle“, to the highly interesting and sumptuously illustrated work of Schlagintweit’s „Indien“, to the reports published on order of our naval section, in part edited by Benko, and not appreciated enough, of the travels of our various warships („Nautilus“, „Aurora“, „Albatros“, „Saida“, „Frundsberg“), Lehnert’s et al. „Seehäfen des Weltverkehrs“ — a work of a relatively voluminous nature that treats a wealth of material in a most felicitous manner, Jedina’s »An Asiens Küsten und Fürstenhöfen «, Hübner’s „Promenade Autour Du Monde„, Mantegazza’s „Indien„, Wereschagin’s „Reiseskizzen aus Indien„, Schulze’s „Führer auf Java“, Jung’s „Der Weltteil Australien„, Wallace’s „Der Malayische Archipel„, Forbes‚ „Wanderungen eines Naturforschers im Malayischen Archipel“, Chalmers’ »Neu-Guinea«, Finsch‘ „Ethnologische Erfahrungen aus der Südsee„, Katscher’s „Chinesisches Leben„, Exner’s „China“ und „Japan“, Hein’s „Japan“, Kreitner’s „Im fernen Osten“, Buchner’s „Reise durch den stillen Ocean“ and other highly deserving works to numerous to mention all.

After dinner all met on the bridge to enjoy the passing away of the wonderful evening.

Links

  • Location: Arabian Sea
  • ANNO – on 29.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Freie Presse offers a tribute to Thomas Cook, pioneer of tourism, who passed away that year on 18 July 1892.

At Sea to Colombo, 28 December 1892

Fierce shots whose echo resounded from the valleys of Shamsani woke us up in the morning. These were the salvoes of the battery of the English fortress that exercised shooting at moving targets out in the sea.

Again, a small market developed at our gangway, then our consulary agent bid farewell and we hoisted anchor and exited the harbour with a course towards the East.

The day is beautiful, a small blast of rain brings refreshment, even though the heat no longer feels as oppressive as in the Red Sea. Only the cabins remain steam baths, with the thermometer seldom sinking below 30° Celsius. Some steam boats are passed and a large school of fish observed.

One of the two goat kids we took on board in Aden and named Max and Moritz, namely Max, a most lovely animal, jumped over board in a suicidal manner and must have soon become the prey of a shark. Moritz got over the loss of his comrade quickly and gaily jumped around the cabins, nibbling zwieback, cigarettes and sugar.

Links

  • Location: Arabian Sea
  • ANNO – on 28.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Pester Lloyd is concerned about Russian declarations about developing their Danube trade. Hitherto, the Russians, based in Odessa, were not interested in the Danube trade. Their vehicle, the Black Sea Danube corporation, is commercially ailing and can only sustain itself with government subsidies. Currently, a new round of financial assistance is discussed in St. Petersburg.
  • A telegram informs that the Emperor arrived in Wels on 27 December on his way back from Munich. On the same day, the Japanese prime minister was caught in a traffic accident by colliding with a car of princess Komatsu’s convoy. The prime minister was gravely injured in the temples.
  • Courses are offered in an ad for amateur photographers to better take pictures with their new camera. Nothing will stand in the way of a Victorian selfie.
Photography instructions for amateurs offered

Photography instructions for amateurs offered

Steamer Point, 26 December 1892

During the night we passed the reefs of the dangerous narrows between the islands of Jebel Zuquar and Hanish. Our Arabian pilot demonstrated cat-like eyesight as he could locate even the most distant reef in this dark night without moonshine.

In the morning, the sea is quieter. On the right is the African mainland, on the left is the Arabian coastline on which appear the high jagged mountains of Yemen whose steep cliffs reveal a different type of landscape than the granite mountains on the Northern coast of the Red Sea. A view through the telescope also shows some spare vegetation on the front of Yemen’s mountains. At the shore glister huts and tents, probably occupied by Arab nomads.

After the church service we pass through the straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, the „gate of grief“, a name verified by the silent witnesses of so many wrecks.

The practical English have occupied this important location on the way to India already in 1857, that is even before the Suez Canal was opened. A seemingly strong fort on the rocky island of Perim guards and blocks the passage of the narrowest point of the Red Sea. Both coasts are within cannon range of a passing ship. When we signalled the lighthouse of Perim the name of our ship, we received the common answer at the end of the year: „The compliments of the season!“

A giant turtle of nearly 2 m length surfaced a few paces away from the fore, observed us with its large yellow head for a number of seconds and vanished again in the sea.

Now the African coast disappears more and more while Arabia’s 844 m high rocky Jebel Kharas comes into view.

A large smack of jellyfish is approaching. They glitter and glow in the most beautiful rose red and dark violet colors which makes us stop the machines to pick up some of these sea flowers.

At 8 o’clock in the evening the lighthouse of Steamer Point was blinking and soon we were anchoring in the outer harbour of Aden. A small English patrol boat, the cannon boat „Redbreast“ and three large steamships were moored in the harbor, where just a powerful English transport ship was hoisting its anchor. This colossus let loose its steam whistle and departed quickly towards the East, probably in the direction towards India.

Just after we had dropped the anchor, the consular representative came on board, followed by a couple of merchants who eagerly offered their services in numerous languages.

Links

  • Location: Aden
  • ANNO – on 26.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. Due to Christmas Day, few newspapers are published on 26 December. Time for the Wiener Sonn- und Montagszeitung to shine: In Dublin on 25 December, a dynamite bomb killed a British detective, wrecking the detective office. In Paris, the Panama scandal is hotly debated.

At Sea to Steamer Point, 25. December 1892

The South wind became stiffer and stiffer. The huge sea waves made it questionable whether church services could be held. Only our brave chaplain did not let himself be intimidated and read mass on the altar which was surmounted by the standard, despite the fact that all lights went out and the candelabra tumbled down.

In the afternoon the islands of Jebel Teir und Zebayir came into view, naked empty islands without any vegetation. Again some flying fishes crossed our path like silver stars. Of birds, I observed besides the common seagulls multiple flocks of swifts.

The sea grew more and more violent; wave upon wave crashed onto the bridge on which we, completely drenched, stayed during nearly the whole evening and admired the impressive play of waves.

Links

  • Location: Red Sea
  • ANNO – on 25.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. On 22 pages, the Wiener Zeitung lists the army promotions separated by rank and branch of service. The Wiener Salonblatt notes that the Emperor is spending Christmas with his son-in-law, Prince Leopold of Bavaria, in Munich while the Empress departed from Palermo, Italy, to her villa Achilleïon on Corfu.
  • It also informs its readers about the progress of Franz Ferdinand’s journey as well as fellow passenger Archduke Leopold Ferdinand (who will be recalled shortly after Franz Ferdinand’s plea to the Emperor to do so). The Salonblatt states that they arrived in Port Said on 20 December and departed the following day to Colombo (Ceylon) . It pledges to provide a weekly update about the journey.

At Sea to Steamer Point, 24 December 1892

Christmas Day, the day whose purpose seems to consist solely of an evening, with a Christmas tree at the center and happy give and take among the family members. Wistful feelings overcome me. For 29 years, this is the first time of spending that evening not with my family. Even though I stand on patriotic ground, we miss out on the winter landscape that is presented at home and which is connected so closely with this day. Truly glowing wishes and thoughts I send home from the Red Sea, as Phoebus is not considerate of us. In the sun, we have more than 40°, in the machine room over 60° Celsius, plus a glowingly hot South-Southeastern wind that takes away all refreshing effect out of the air.

Clam and I smiled as we dressed up a small Christmas tree I had taken along from the woods in Konopiště and were sweating copiously: „from the hot brow, sweat must flow”. Every quarter hour we hurried on deck to breathe better air as the oppressing mugginess below deck was barely supportable. The lights and other objects which my mother has given me to decorate the tree were showing signs of the tropical heat too: They had become all soft and started melting.

During the day, I saw for the first time flying fishes which flitted swift as an arrow above the waves and resembled large butterflies with their shiny wings. On the aft deck we caught some large locusts whose flying skills I admired as the next stretch of land lay 56 sea miles distant from the ship. The poor animals were very exhausted and therefore easy to catch!

Just after dinner we ignited the lights of the Christmas tree and started a small ceremony in my cabin to which besides the gentlemen of my suite had assembled Leopold, the captain and the officer of the day?. Many different small presents including many surprises from home secretly taken aboard were laid out on the table.

Based on an invitation of the officer corps, I went to the Carré where the gentlemen had put up a beautiful Christmas tree that was covered in artificial cotton snow flakes and with its many lights was shining very merrily and clear. A joke tombola with the strangest of objects started the feast, while our chief medical officer Dr. Plumert brewed a tremendous pineapple mulled wine. With the first cup, the captain remembered in warm words all those left behind at home who were certainly with us on this day in thoughts. Afterwards, there were musical numbers. A cadet played the zither magnificently, while other gentlemen were putting the piano through its paces. The singing also commanded the attention and I felt very much at home, listening to so many truly Austrian melodies. So many canons, so many soldierly songs showed at least the good will as well as the love of our compatriots for their local songs. To my great delight I discovered a talented fellow yodeller in the person of our navigation officer. The captain and an engineer were so kind to join in and so we four yodelled all those famous yodel songs such as »Auerhahn«, »Zillerthal«, »Zwa Sterndia am Himmel« out into the Red Sea. A few weeks ago I had listened to the yodellers and hurrahs in the Salzburg mountains among firn and ice, as the hunters and boys were gaily singing during the chamois hunt in the cold but delicious morning, so that the echo resounded a hundred fold against the walls and Alpine bowls – and now we were singing the same songs swimming in the ocean at 40° Celsius. What a strange contrast! In unadulterated hilarity we passed the evening and it was late when I went up to the bridge to dream a bit more about the glorious starry sky.

Links

  • Location: Red Sea
  • ANNO – on 24.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. On 23 December, the Prague diocese excommunicated a fallen priest („große Excommunication“). Out of Lemberg, Galicia, it is noted that 80,000 inhabitants emigrated. Hamburg counts two cases of cholera, one a local man who died. Budapest notes that it counts zero cases of cholera.
Thomas Cook & Sons on Stephanplatz, Vienna, promote tours on the Nile.

Thomas Cook & Sons on Stephansplatz, Vienna, promote tours on the Nile.

At Sea to Steamer Point, 23 December 1892

On the open sea. Saltwater around the ship’s planks and above it the canopy: That is all that is offered to the mariner’s view. And still it is a painting of simple majesty, not a monotonous image which brings forth air and water to us. Whoever is blessed with a sentiment for nature’s beauty will retain very enjoyable impressions of these changing images created by the elements. Off and on we are captivated by the range of colors and forms, then by their movements and again by the majestic calm of the sea and time and again, this grand work of god’s creation continues to excite our thoughts and feelings: now by the spray of the whirl in which the iron ship is spinning up and down like a shuttlecock. then by the foam crowns of the waves at the fore — a shroud of mist may obscure the horizon, the fiery sun may paint the air and sea in a rose or purple light or the soft moonshine may bathe the tireless waves in a silver light. Hour upon hour, I delight to stand on the bridge glancing first at the swelling waves, then to the sky. To whom the sky is more than airless space, who loves and understands the sea, will be pleased by the power and the might of the light, its glittering smoothness, as well as the roaring sea. When the sun has set, we look at the constellations and remember that our dear ones at home are looking at the same constellations and that they feel what is moving us.

I observe the beings that become visible from the ship like visiting ambassadors of our element, the Earth, a dolphin ambling around our vessel and boldly jumping out of the water, a soaring seagull, fast as an arrow; a small bird twittering on the yard, recovering for the long voyage over the shear endless sea. Most charming was a white wagtail that followed us on part of our journey and sang its happy song unbashfully on the rails of the command bridge and later picked up crumbs of bread fallen down from the seamen’s table in the battery.

The good seamen enjoyed a short midday rest to which they were fully entitled. From early morning to the evening, they are without interruption at work, not a moment of idleness or boredom. After reveille („Ausspurren“) starts the cleaning of the whole ship, and bucket upon bucket of water is versed upon the beautiful ship in order that she may complete her daily work in splendor. Exercises of all kind in the battery and on deck, from time to time a fire alarm or to test the martial impulse in earnest a battle stations alarm and are continued after a frugal meal and are filled with hours of countless mental composition in the ship’s school rooms. In the evening, after the toils of the day, the crew is meeting on deck, smoking cigarettes and sing their native songs and ballads, in which the Slavs and Dalmatians usually excel all others in their choirs about the old heroic tales of Marko Kraljevic, Peter Klepec and other songs. Finally, the retreat call („Abpurren“) is sounded and the hammocks are entered. Quietness reigns, apart from the pounding of the machines and the call of the outlook every half hour, „All right“ and „Lanterns clear“.

I passed the whole day on deck. The temperature is fully southern now. In front of my cabin, the thermometer shows  40° in the sun, the sea is 22° Celsius. The wind has changed and blows hot and dry from the south. Now and then a large mountain is visible in the far away mist on the horizon, otherwise just a few passing single steamboats. In the morning, we passed the lighthouse of Daedalus, which emerges out of the sea as it is located on a submerged coral reef — not even the tiniest morsel of land around it. Three Maltese men pass their lonely life here as lighthouse guards. One after the other is given a short vacation to escape to the mainland every six months.

Links

  • Location: Daedalus Reef, Red Sea
  • ANNO – on 23.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Arbeiter Zeitung reminds its comrade-readers that the new quarter will be starting soon and that subscribers better pay up on time in order not to miss an issue. The subscription is to be paid in advance. Content-wise, it informs that cholera is threatening from Hamburg. In Austria, protective measures which should have been undertaken to contain the disease have not been executed to the inactivity of the planning committees.  In other news, the consumption of horse meat has increased in comparison to the year before. Given that only weak and old horses are slaughtered, this is not seen as an improvement of the workers‘ lot.

At Sea to Steamer Point, 22 December 1892

We are in the Gulf of Suez. The canal lies behind us and we proceed quickly at full speed towards the Red Sea. The wind is still blowing strongly from the Northeast. Starboard, we see the mountains on the Egyptian shore, among them Jebel Gharib of 1749 m, on backboard, the Sinai peninsula with its naked, ragged mountains. These mountains remind me vividly of those in Palestine and Syria. The higher parts without any vegetation, steep,  broken with jagged sharp peaks, parts situated lower down likewise extraordinarily irregular; cones of debris and small hills alternate with deep cut, washed out gorges and valleys; it is as if a tempestuous sea had been abruptly turned into stone. Towards the southern peak of the peninsula the aventuruous form of the mountains is even increasing;  on many a high-lying point between wild peaks one looks upon broad sand moraines which extend down to the sea.

Our pilot Akhmed Ali, an Arab from Port Said, clad in a long yellow burnous with a red fez on his head, always used to call me “Padisha” while bowing disquietingly with an air of docile mischievousness that can be observed very often among the sons of the desert. In my absence he made vivid enquiries with the officer of the watch whether I would offer him baksheesh in Aden. On the officer’s remark that such customs were not observed [in Austria], he proposed him to help him get baksheesh and receive a share of it. This original idea which highlights the local custom of certain practices really entertained me and I decided to offer the honest gentleman a baksheesh at his debarkation to his sole disposition in order that he might learn about our customs.

The steamship wreck fixed on a coral riff at the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula of which only parts of the prow and one mast reach out of the water makes a stern impression. The sad debris set off ghastly fantasies. One believes to hear the howling storm, the roaring sea whose waves, high as a tower, had smashed the poor ship mercilessly against the rocks. What pains the crew must have suffered, which ghastly scenes of horror might have taken place!

Links

  • Ort: Gulf of Suez
  • ANNO – on 22.12.1892 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Freie Presse informs that among Austria’s military institutions, Germany’s reform to reduce mandatory military service from three to two years are debated too. There are concerns that recruits will not be able to learn all the necessary military skills in the shortened period.
  • The k.u.k. Burgtheater is closed from 22 to 24 December 1892. Part of the revenue of the Sunday play of Faust, Part I, on 25 December 1892 will be donated to charities.

Das Burgtheater bleibt vom 22. zum 24. Dezember geschlossen.