Schlagwort-Archiv: April

At Sea to Java, 10 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

In the morning at a quarter hour past 2 o’clock we entered the strait of Banka. Heavy clouds in the South-west let us fear wind with heavy rain. But the storm passed us by so that we could continue without interference.

At 10 o’clock in the morning, „Elisabeth“ passed by the Timbaga Rocks. The wreck of a stranded full ship which had been loaded with coal showed the perils to which sailors are exposed.

At 2 o’clock in the afternoon „Elisabeth“ was at the southern end of the Bangka strait. From there our course led us eight miles east of North Watcher and from here started navigating around the Nassau Rocks towards the Edam lighthouse.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Java (Bangka Strait)
  • ANNO – on 10.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is playing the drama „Dorf und Stadt“, while the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is performing the opera „Lohengrin“.

At Sea to Java, 9 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

At dawn we hoisted the anchor to leave the harbor of Singapore. First the course was set for the Rio strait between the islands of Batam and Bintang.  Everywhere there were smiling islands visible as if we were driving in a very wide stream. In the distance one could see the coast of Sumatra with high mountains. The pleasure of the journey was boosted by the smooth and calm sea and by the fact that the heat was not excessive, the cabins excepted. As beautiful the journey seemed for the passenger, as difficult it was in terms of navigation, because in the narrow strait of our course there were not only currents that were at times quite strong but also sand banks and shallow areas that had to be carefully evaded. But thanks to the experienced leadership of our commander and that of ship of the line lieutenant Gratzl, an excellent navigator, two gentlemen who spent day and night almost without a break on the bridge without regard for their health and keenly doing their duty so that we drove safely through the most difficult passages.

After the end of church service I found myself just with the staff on the afterdeck when it seemed as if a loud shout of „Ship ahoy!“ rang out from outside the ship which was answered by the commander with „Empress Elisabeth“. Then a pilot of Neptune came on board, approached us and asked about the commander of the ship and informed him that „Elisabeth“ had arrived at the kingdom of the god of the seas and that in the afternoon during the crossing of the equator Neptune himself would come on board to perform the naval baptism of all greenhorns. Then the pilot had the navigator come and compared his map with his own and showed him a spot where Neptune would be awaiting our ship. The pilot which we only recognized as the honorable bosun Zamberlin when he started to talk looked pretty uncanny. He was wearing black clothes, a large Sou’wester on his head and a mask with a long beard. The pilot talked with the navigator and then disappeared as quickly as he had appeared in the direction of the ship’s bow.

During the morning, a stand decorated with flags was built between the boats on the afterdeck on which I in the company of the commander and the gentlemen of my entourage sat down while the whole staff assembled in front of the stand. Already at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, the signal „All hands on deck“ was sounded. Exactly at 3 o’clock and half an hour, „Kaiserin Elisabeth“ crossed the equator at 105° 3′ 30″ Eastern longitude.

At that moment the machines stopped. The crew assembled in line. The entrance of the god of the seas began and namely from the lower castle towards the stand on which we were standing. In front marched the music band whose members were dressed in all kinds of folk costumes: There were Indians, Negroes, highland Scots, even a typical Bohemian musician marched in front of the ceremonial carriage which was drawn by four sea monsters.

On the carriage, a splendidly decorated gun carriage, sat on his throne in a purple cloak with crown and trident the ruler of the seas. At Neptune’s side sat his wife with chastely reddening cheeks, the sea goddess Amphitrite. The god of the seas was played, as was natural, by our bosun. A mighty figure, he looked awe-inspiring, decorated with Neptune’s attributes and the head covered with a snow-white mustache and beard made out of flax tow. A charming figure was Amphitrite. This role was played, as chosen by the organizers of the feast, by a small Tyrolean whose chubby face with large blue eyes in combination with a blond wig, a low-cut dress and all kinds of ribbons and jewelry which created the illusion of Amphitrite  being played by a young pretty girl. A huge wet nurse carried in her arms the already rather grown-up child of the divine couple. The child behaved rather naughty and cried and shouted without break. This group was proof of the goofy natural humor of our crew and made me smile most vividly. The group’s creation shows again in admirable way how our sailors, as soon as one lets them act out their natural merriness, will with the most simple tools produce most comical effects.

Behind the ceremonial carriage marched Neptune’s retinue. The astronomer, the physician, the barber, pitch-black wild men and their wives, Tritons etc. Now Neptune left the wagon and mounted on a small stand, demands silence and asks the commander the usual questions: Where was he coming from, who has sent him and who was the owner of the ship. Then Neptune commands the physician and the astronomer to perform their duties. The former asks for the chief medical officer of the ship, assures himself that the ship has a clean health bill and no contagious diseases, while the latter one comically simulates astronomical procedures and measurements, a merry show appreciated by all.  The deceptively real-looking astronomical instruments used were all made out of wood.

At the end of the procession, the astronomer who knows English draws a large telescope out of a pocket and reports to the god that the equator is already visible and we were now very close to it. Now Neptune sends his wife to me on the stand. With a deep bow and paying homage with a few words, Amphitrite handed me a artfully constructed sea poodle while some of the kneeling black wives of the wild men offered me various fruits in sea shells.

Then Neptune turns to me and, having calmed his incessantly screaming child with a few sailor’s curses, gives a short talk in which he highlights how happy he is and how pleased he is to perform the fourth equator baptism of a member of the Emperor’s family within a few decades. Then he wished the ship a safe journey and declared that the hideous monsters Monsunia and Taifunia, which were represented in his entourage with masks would not be capable to harm „Elisabeth“. The god ended his talk with an order to the Tritons and the barber to perform the baptism.

Then they rush upon some of the younger staff members, especially the cadets, place them upon planks that cover water barrels, lather the greenhorns with a thick flour paste and start to shave their beards with large wooden knives. At the right moment, the plank under the barber’s victims is torn away so that the baptized disappears in the barrel while buckets of water are emptied over him.

Now Neptune took a large vessel filled with water and  spilled it over the commander. This was the signal for the general baptism. Immediately all water locks, all pumping hoses as well as the two steam injectors were manned and the big water battle began. Everything that could hold water such as buckets and other equipment was used in action and baptists and baptized fought doggedly. The comical scenes that one could observe can not be described. All distinction of rank, etiquette and consideration ceased. Everybody just wanted to fill their bucket with water as fast as possible and splash it over the next victim or even put the bucket on the victim’s head as a hat.

With a terrific force performed the steam injectors. Anyone caught by their stream was pushed back by the impact as if the man had been turned into water himself. Father Neptune guided the hose of one steam injector and targeted mostly me and the commander so that we were exposed to a heavy crossfire, especially as the officers and the crew with their buckets fairly assisted. Soon everything was swimming on the deck just like after a heavy downpour.

In the midst of the dunking I opened my eyes in order not to miss the scenes that played themselves out on deck. Here pretty Amphitrite was fleeing, holding in one hand her endangered wig and with the other holding the fragments of her low-cut dress together. The child has lost his cap and bib and has been transformed back into a  k. und k. sailor; the bombardon player has found his instrument completely filled with water and splashes the content over an unsuspecting comrade. A pitch-black wild man has turned into a piebald as one side of his body has been treated by the steam injector while the other one is still shining in black. Everybody is running around, splashing around while the water flows.

Here too, in the midst of this carefree joking, we as faithful sons of our country thought about our most gracious majesty. Suddenly, Neptune ordered silence and the commander led a cheer for Our Majesty the Emperor which was answered under the sublime sounds of our anthem by a hundred voices with three enthusiastic thunderous hurrahs. Then Neptune mounted the totally wet stand and handed me with a few solemn words a lovely certificate in which the god of the seas confirmed that I had crossed the equator. This artfully designed certificate was signed by Ramberg and decorated with fitting emblems and ornaments.

Again the water battle was raging which took place mostly among the sailors as many of the officers had retired to their cabins to change their clothes. Around 30 men had namely hidden themselves to evade the baptism. The comrades, however, did not accept such outsiders. The whole ship, every nook and cranny, was searched, the victims finally fetched out of their hiding places and their heads held directly under the pump for minutes as a punishment. Some were discovered in the boats, others under the guns or between boxes and baggage in the storage area. As soon as a joyful shout rang out of having found one of the refugees, a  whole swarm rushed upon him to perform the baptism. One of the sailors had climbed to the top spot of the main mast but this refugee was immediately fetched by three comrades. The scene looked even more funny viewed from the deck as among the pursuers was one of the Negro wives.

I was standing near a group of sailors when suddenly the message was shouted: „Now, we are getting the court cook!“ I too applauded this idea and I was expecting fondly to see thick Bussatto being held under the pump. But soon the people returned with the message that the smart Italian had locked himself in his cabin. The well-meant advice to break open the door was met with shouted approval and after a few moments  Bussatto appeared reluctantly on the stairs, half pushed, half carried. But in what state! His snow-white dress displayed the unmistakable signs of full menus. Covered with the most diverse blots of color, the cook was sent under the pump where he was baptized by the sailors with a special satisfaction.  The damage to his dress is explained, as I later learned, by the fact that Bussatto had taken a picturesque posture when the sailors had finally pushed in the door of the cabin,  and picked up a large kitchen knife and uttered a stream of curses against his tormentors. These were not idle and stopped his speech by putting a bucket of apricot ice that was ready to be served over his head, followed by multiple sauces and then carried him up to the deck.

Finally a horn signal ended the funny activities. Only late in the evening could Bussatto provide us with a meal as he flatly declared that all prepared dishes had been ruined partly in contact with his person, partly contaminated by salt water. It is a fact that there was hardly a spot on the ship that had not become wet. Even the prepared bird bodies  had received their share by the key hole.

For a long time we sat together on the iron deck with the gentlemen of the staff some of whom ate with me and we discussed the happy events of the day.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Java (equator)
  • ANNO – on 09.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is playing the comedy „Krieg im Frieden“, while the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is performing the ballet „Die goldene Märchenwelt“.

Singapore, 8 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

First thing in the morning, I examined closely a collection of ethnographic objects from New Guinea, Sumatra, Nias and Borneo that a former captain of the merchant fleet had assembled. After prolonged negotiations I bought the whole collection. It contains interesting objects of great ethnographic value, especially primitive weapons built without iron or other metals. Also jewellery, daggers and knives made out of human bone, a series of carved ancestral portraits that serve on Nias to mark holy places, as well as countless fetishes, domestic, fishing and hunting tools etc.

While Wurmbrand and Clam arranged the packaging of the objects, I did some more shopping driving in a rickshaw from shop to shop. I also added two very lovely monkeys and some parrots to the menagerie on board.

Doing business in the hot zone may drive a European with even a very calm temper to a mild despair. The inescapable endless negotiating and bargaining causes a horrible waste of time. Buying a hat or a pair of shoes will thus become an earnest undertaking that can not be completed in less than two hours. My purchasing used up the entire morning, namely as I could not rely on the participation of the consul general who had not been informed about it and I finally asked the Lloyd’s agent for help.

Returned on board at noon, I sent out some boats to embark the ethnographic collection in time on board. The rest of the day was spent in saying good-bye and preparations for the journey to Java and the expedition there.

Links

  • Location: Singapore
  • ANNO – on 08.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers. The Wiener Salonblatt of 9 April notes the arrival of Franz Ferdinand in Singapore.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is playing „Fromont junior und Risler senior“, while the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is performing the opera „Die Jüdin“.

Johor to Singapore, 7 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

For today it was planned to visit Johor, the capital and residence of the sultanate Johor founded in 1859 by sultan Abu Bekr. In the sultan’s absence the heir apparent had invited me to enter the interesting kingdom of the sovereign Malay sultanate of Johor and after seeing the sights to hunt close to the city in the afternoon.

Accompanied by the Belgian consul general, my entourage and several gentlemen from the staff of „Elisabeth“ we set out of Singapore early in the morning in carriages. As the heat was not yet suffocating, the drive was very pleasant. On an excellent road we crossed the whole island of Singapore, first alongside the numerous parks of the city of villas and then through jungles and primal forests.

Astonished and captivated, our eyes were locked to the marvels which nature produced in its blooming children. While I might call the prevalence of palm and banian trees as characteristic for Ceylon, here there was a colorful changing variety of views. Bamboos, mango and durian trees line the road; behind them stand coffee and pepper trees. Then follows jungle out of whose impenetrable thickets sago and areka palm trees were rising as well as tree ferns. Numerous small Malay and Chinese settlements add lively colors to the rich green of the landscape.

The drive took around two hours to finally arrive at the end of the island and we could see the city of Johor in front of us, only separated by the small water road of Salat Tabras. The first sight of Johor is very charming. Out of a deep-blue sea rise green hills, on the left criss-crossed by the stream Sungei Tschat and ornamented like a park and crowned with bungalows. In the middle was Istana Laut, the sultan’s palace; on the right government buildings and the former seraglio of the sultan. On the left the small blooming city with its light red brick roofs. In between copses of trees an green meadows. Truly, if we didn’t know that a sea strait was in front of us, one might think of being at the friendly shore of an interior lake.

On the landing pier on the other shore we were received by two nephews of the sultan and I was escorted on a lovely barge to Johor’s shore where the first minister as well as all dignitaries and Europeans present were assembled. A pretty steam yacht of the sultan was anchored there. On foot we went to the palace where the heir apparent, a tall 18-year-old young man with a very sympathetic mien as well as a younger brother of the sultan received us. The palace is a long two story building whose exterior is without ornamentation while the interior has been decorated more tastefully and comfortably than the palace in Singapore. There is no shortage of guest rooms as the sultan is extremely hospitable  and every European who arrives in Singapore, especially if he is a naval officer, is highly welcome to visit him.

In a vestibule of the Istana, tea was served and the program of the day discussed. The key persons apparently were not completely in agreement about it. At the court of the sultan, multiple Europeans who had had a very lively past and must not have lived in peace with their neighbors but had explored their differences and pursued their own interests tried to gain a decisive influence upon the sultan. Among them lives a Swiss who has now a coffee plantation of the sultan’s and served as an organizer and interpreter during our stay. Besides other British persons, there was a Scot who had come to Johor as an engineer and now possessed a large steam saw.

The heir apparent seems to be under the influence of these strangers even though he otherwise exhibited a decisive character. He has been in that rank for only a short time as the sultan had earlier designated another of his relatives who was being educated in England as his heir but had declared this for void without much circumstance when the relative did not develop according to the sultan’s wishes and named him chief of police while the current heir was designated to be the successor to the kingdom of Johor.

After the conclusion of the discussion about the day’s activities a drive in a steam boat was undertaken and namely in the estuary which separates Singapore from the mainland. Firstly the ship drove alongside a small city, then past many plantations and finally we steered in between the jungle that reaches on both sides to the shore and forms a lovely frame for the sea strait.

Then followed a rich breakfast during which I had the opportunity to admire the golden table fittings and the golden tableware — opulently equipped luxuries of the goldsmith’s art which the sultan had had made in England. The household of Johor is generally equipped with the greatest luxury what, it is said, has led to an overburdening of the civil list of this ruler in combination with the other very expensive habits of sultan Abu Bekr. In a clever calculation of its own advantage, England knows, it is claimed, to keep its ward out of financial misery time and again.

The sultanate of Johor contains 24.850 km2 with around 300.000 inhabitants, among them 210.000 Chinese, and is thanks to the English participation very well administered.  The main sources of income of the government are from the importation of opium and alcoholic beverages as well as the export duties upon gambir, pepper and other agricultural products which by the way is the only tax the inhabitants of Joho have to contribute to.

The interior of Johor is covered with thick tropical jungle whether it is swampland or hilly terrain or mountain. Due to the influence of the nearly daily rain, the strong dew and the great humidity, one can find here a rich evergreen vegetation.

Palms such as the sugar rich Cabong palm, the coconut, the Sagound, the Areka palm trees and the gutta percha trees (Isonandra gutta), camphor trees (Camphora officinalis) and excellent wood for construction providing large tree trunks of the virgin forest are characteristic for the forest zone. Bushes that supply resin, oil and poison constitute the undergrowth of the jungles. The cultivated land is used especially for the production of rice, maize, namely however for pepper and catechin, the extract from the branches of the gambir bush (Uncaria Gambir), a Rubiacee, that contained a tanning agent.

The intense cultivation of pepper and catechin-gamber which is by preference done in the North-western province of Muar almost completely by Chinese is expressed in Johor’s exports as the two named products are the most important export goods. Imported is mainly rice, the main staple of the population.

Up to now only a few parcels have been converted to cultivation. The forests are in many places not and in the others only irrationally exploited, with the result that Johor’s jungles still contain many apes of the Gibbon family (Hylobates), then Semnopithecus obscurus etc., and also scattered elephants, rhinos, tapirs, bisons (Gaur), bears and even Malaysian tigers, as well as sambar deer and the small Kijangs (Cervus muntjac), then crocodiles, snakes and finally many birds.

The mineral wealth of Johor are still not explored with the exception of tin of which the whole Malaysian peninsula is especially rich as well as gold. The latter one is especially found around Ophir (Gunong Ledang), the tallest mountain in the territory of Johor, whose sharply rising peak we had already seen from the sea on April 5th.

All in all the sultanate of Johor which had entered into history as one of the tributary states of the once so mighty sultanate of Malacca but then had fought and achieved its independence and managed to keep its sovereignty to the present day, offered a very favorable terrain for the tasks of modern cultivation. Under Abu Bekr administration, culture and trade of Johor had made decisive progress on the way which alone can provide this small but richly furnished and favorably located country with enduring prosperity.

A deer and boar hunt was planned and thus we drove, having enjoyed the culinary fruits of Johor, on an excellent road inland across a very pretty landscape with numerous nice Malay settlements in whose small gardens the purging croton (Croton tiglium) formed the main ornament. We drove comfortably and rapidly. The carriages and the horse teams especially were excellent as the horse loving sultan had imported among others also a pair of outstanding horses from our country. We stopped at a police station, where the hunting party was expecting us led by the brother of the sultan, a very well nourished gentleman, as well as the deposed heir to the throne — two reportedly proficient hunters.

After a long discussion it was decided that we should take up position in an extended line while the drivers already in position would march through the jungle towards us with their dogs. Behind us they had formed some kind of net made out of bast slings which was intended to catch any escaping, wounded or missed game. Thus we stood in intervals of 50 paces each in the middle of tall grass and thick ferns with little open ground and were waiting for action. Hour upon hour passed and nothing appeared beyond a huge pouring rain that came down upon us with flash and thunder and restricted our view to a few paces and soaked our clothes within minutes.

The current and the former heirs as well as the sultan’s brother stood behind me soaking wet and finally declared that probably no game would come close to us now and thus it was better to return home. I quickly concurred and we were soon back at the police station where the organizers apologized for the failure and explained that they did not have sufficient time for the preparation for a more successful hunt. Despite our message that my arrival was imminent in Singapore and Johor five weeks ago, the Belgian consul general is said to have informed the court of Johor only recently about my visit, possibly because he had been constrained by having to represent four governments at the same time. The consul general also had not participated in the hunt but had asked me to use the time for a visit to the state prison, so that he failed to get his share of the downpour.

During the return drive I enjoyed the company of the heir apparent who told with delight about his time in Vienna which he had visited a short time ago as well about Frankfurt am Main where he had stayed for half a year. The sultan is very keen on Western culture and tends to send his relatives to Europe to obtain an education.

The gala dinner in the palace was attended by us, the prince, a large number of dignitaries and the prince of Pahang deposed by the English. This formerly independent prince of a kingdom of 25.900 km2 at the northern border of Johor had been simply dispossessed by the English because of alleged riots in his country and angry and sulking, he had retired to Johor where a marriage between his daughter and our host was to take place on the particular wish of the sultan of Johor; but the prince does not seem to agree to this plan and seemed for the present to be reluctant to agree. At the dinner I sat beside the prime minister, a friendly and knowledgeable old fellow with whom I had a good conversation thanks to the interpreter. He knew much about our country and about all our officers on the mission ships of our navy which had been guests here. In the absence of the ruler he is in charge of the government and is said to be a competent and active man.

The golden fittings which decorated the table were, if that was even possible, even more valuable and more splendid than those I had admired in the morning.. A rather good private orchestra of the sultan provided the musical entertainment and just after the dinner accompanied the Malaysian dances in which boys in girls‘ dresses were turning around in a circle as the female sex was excluded from public dances according to the ruling customs here. The spectacle was by the way rather without interest even though the poor boys gave their best.

After I had taken a heartfelt leave from the prince and the gentlemen in Johor, I visited also a Chinese gambling den which had been formerly established in Singapore and now was suffered here more than licensed to set up shop here. The Chinese enjoy gambling with a true passion, sacrificing the fruits of hard work and move on all holidays in whole caravans from Singapore to the gambling den in Johor. The gambling hall is rather cleanly equipped. At its side is a restaurant and an opium den. The game is a simple game of chance as one wagers upon four numbers and decides the game by a throw of a die.

As a dedicated enemy of games of chance who by the way neither finds entertainment nor interest in it, I received in this gambling den a truly vile impression. Nevertheless we tried our luck and returned in a splendid, mild tropical night on the same way we had come in the morning, minus the loss of a few dollars, on board of „Elisabeth“ where we arrived late in the evening.

Links

  • Location: Singapore
  • ANNO – on 07.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is playing a comedy „Verbot und Befehl“, while the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is performing Richard Wagner’s opera „Die Walküre“.

Singapore, 6 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

Towards 5 o’clock in the morning I was woken by a heavy storm that was unloading itself with force. One clap of thunder followed the other; the rain poured down so densely that one could not see beyond a few steps and the commander was forced to anchor near Alligator Island by the lighting fire of Raffles Island. As one could not think of sleep under such circumstances, I went up to the bridge and enjoyed the elementary spectacle amidst the pouring rain. Half an hour later, the wind relented and soon the blue sky started gleaming so that we could resume our journey.

In the far distance one could see on the right the shape of Sumatra, while on the left the Malacca peninsula and small islands accompanied us. Finally a signal station appeared in the morning mist, some ships and then more and more the largest buildings of Singapore. The pilot came on board and guided us to the wharf where we anchored about 1.5 miles from land.

Just thereafter appeared the substitute for our own vacationing consul, the Belgian consul general M. J. de Bernard de Fauconval, with the message that cholera was raging rather heavily in Singapore and that this malicious illness has already picked its victims among the Europeans and finally that no large hunts could be undertaken at the sultan of Johor, because the ruler had himself departed for Karlsbad and the season was not considered favorable for hunting.

I originally had the intention to stay a few days in Johor as the excellent hunting grounds and the hospitality of the sultan had been much praised to me, but decided obviously in view of this bad messages to stay in Singapore only as long as was necessary to get to know the city and its surroundings, to undertake a trip to Johor nearby and to replenish the ship with coal in order ton continue the journey to Batavia.

Now a number of visits started. First of all came the governor of the Straits Settlements, Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, and after him the commander of the Siamese yacht „Ubon Burathid“. He was accompanied by an acquaintance from Vienna who served as an interpreter, a common figure in Vienna’s Ringstraße and the racecourse in Freudenau, the Siamese Nai Glinn, who had served for quite some time as a lieutenant in the 7th Dragoon regiment and had only recently returned home, only to depart soon to Berlin to serve as a military attaché as he told me.  I was very pleased to see Nai Glinn again — he now is a captain and calls himself Luang Salyooth. He appeared dressed in the full dress uniform of a lieutenant of the Lorraine Dragoons in order to receive information when I would be willing to receive the half-brother of the king of Siam sent here to greet me.

With the Dutch consul general G. Lavino, I set the program for my stay in Java after long negotiations. The program then was immediately telegraphed to Batavia.

Just thereafter I received the half-brother of the ruling king of Siam, Prince Bidyalab Briddhi Dhata who had arrived three days before on the yacht „Ubon Burathid“. The prince who is distinguished by his intelligent mien appeared with a large entourage of dignitaries among them a cousin of the king, Prince Prabakorn, and besides our friend Nai Glinn also Captain Mom Radschawongse Krob who was attached three years ago to the 11th Hussars in Vienna as a lieutenant. In my cabin where Prince Bidyalab presented me with a letter of the king we had a long conversation translated by Nai Glinn.

The prince’s mission was intended to convince me to come directly from Singapore to Siam and postpone my journey to Java as well as Australia to a later date,  as the coming rainy season put the hunts and namely the capture of elephants into question. To my regret I had to restrict myself to offer thanks to the king and express my disappointment that the chosen route could not be changed at that moment. The prince seemed to be not very pleased about the failure of his diplomatic mission and left the ship after the exchange of some courtesies to the sound of the guns as well as the music of the Siamese anthem.

I then went on board of the prince’s yacht but did not meet neither the prince nor one of his officers but only a Siamese NCO who did not understand what we wanted.

In the afternoon a launch transported me onto the land to visit the city of Singapore. Singapore, the „city of lions“, today a metropolis and crossing point of the most important shipping lines of the Indian and Pacific Oceans has quickly risen to become the center of the transit trade between Australia, East Asia, Polynesia, India on the one hand and Europe on the other.

After the return of Java to the Dutch in 1815, the English turned their eyes to the southern end of the Asiatic mainland, in order to find a replacement for this splendid possession, to the foot of the Malacca peninsula which can justly be said to be very advantageous both from a strategic and commercial point of view. First Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, formerly governor of the English East India Company on Java managed to receive the permission in 1819 from the government of the sultan of Johor to found a British settlement on the island of Singapore. In 1824 the island became a possession of the East India Company by acquisition,  in 1867 a new treaty transferred its possession to the British crown.

The island of Singapore is 43 km long and 23 km wide and also contains within its territory 70 further small islands. It is separated by the water route of Salat Tabras from the mainland which is part of the sultanate Johor at the southern tip of the Malaysian peninsula. The water route is on average around 1 to 1.5 km wide and encompasses the northern half of the island in the form of a semi-circle around 55 km long. Thus very close to the mainland opposite it, the island shares its geological structure. Sandstone and granite provide the foundation, fertile alluvia the cover of the island. Hill lands crisscrossed by streams alternate with areas that used to be covered by jungles and swamps and have today been turned to a large extent into cultivated areas. On the former swampland and jungle grow now embedded in luxurious vegetation tropical field and tree fruits in such a quantity that Singapore justly bears its Malayan name of „Tamsak“, that is „garden of love“.

Out of the swamps rose the city of Singapore which the English have set out in 1819 at the south coast of the island at the location of the ancient Singhapura which had sunken down to the condition of a poor fishing village. Declared a free-harbor and quickly populated, the new city prospered quickly thanks to its excellent anchoring spots and the incomparable geographic and commercial location. Even quicker as the English held continuously fast to their long-term ambitions to turn an important part, about three fifth of the Malaysian peninsula, into partly protectorates, partly into direct possessions, the latter under the name of Straits Settlements, to become a part of their zone of influence.

The Malaysian protectorates to which the sovereign sultanate of Johor also belongs cover an area of 86.000 km2 with 605.000 inhabitants. The direct possessions, namely the islands of Penang and Singapore as well as some areas on the Malaysian peninsula, cover an area of 3998 km2 and count 512.342 inhabitants. Of this Singapore island alone accounts for 555 km2 and 184.554 inhabitants, so that this island occupied in 1819 only by a few fishing families and the retreat of Malaysian pirates now has a density today of 333 inhabitants per square kilometer — certainly a great development!

The Straits Settlements are under a governor who is at the same time commander-in-chief of the soldiers and in charge of the admiralty court. He is also responsible for the relations of England with its protectorates. His residence is in Singapore.

The commercial importance of Singapore which accounts for the lion’s share of trade is highlighted by the following numbers: In the year 1891 the value of imports was 254,182.631 fl. in Austrian currency, that of the exports 226,332.632 fl. in Austrian currency. In the same year the number of arriving high sea ships was 4184 with 3,324.680 t and that of the coastal vessels 7293 with 260.672 t. Truly during our arrival at the old dock, the anchoring spot for small and large ships, the new harbor with its docks and  wharf, the piers and the landing bridges were brimming with life. Especially the new harbor was filled with scenes of uninterrupted busy activity on the one hand from Singapore island and on the other hand from the six meter deep channel between the islands of Blakan-Mati and Ayerbrani to the establishment of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company and the docks. Without interruption, large steam boats arrived and departed. Everywhere goods were cleared, coal replenished and most diverse local vessels, large Malaysian praus, Chinese junks and the small canoes of the Sundanese were busily rushing around from here to there.

Equally lively are the activities on the long landing bridge Johnston Pier, as well as the neighboring streets of the European quarter where the merchant houses, shops, public buildings, hotels and clubs of the Europeans were located. Here alongside the waterfront, next to the docks, around the magazines runs a colorful stream of humans of all peoples and races.

Even more original is the view offered in the southern part of the city, in the actual business district as well as the quarter of the natives and the Chinese. Malabares of the Dravidian tribe but of Malaysian tongue; Tamils, here called Klings, Hindus from the southern coast of continental India; Malays, the aboriginals of Singapore; Chinese who make up today more than half of all inhabitants of the island: each of these groups is settled in Singapore in their own special quarters.

The main part of the non-European population of the city are the Chinese; these have settled here from the foundation of Singapore and live in the southwestern part of the city beyond the Singapore river in a special quarter which is immediately recognizable by its sky-blue painted houses, the numerous Chinese scriptures at their front and many other things.

There always is a great commotion, the commercial activity, the industriousness the sons of the Middle Kingdom call their own. Not an instance are they idle. Without interruption do they work, trade and negotiate. In the midst of the flow of business they recover in the tea and opium dens between the shops or in the open theaters set up nearby where there are spectacles during the whole day.

Not far from the Chinese quarter are the ones of the Indians and Malays. Around the area oriented towards the land extend the Chinese and the Malaysian settlements and on the North-eastern end of Singapore is a Malaysian village whose small huts enliven as  pile dwellings the shore of the Rohore River. While the Chinese populations increases day by day in number, wealth and power and irresistibly displace the other Asiatic elements, the number of the Malays is dwindling due their indolence, even more so as numerous immigrants from South China marry Malays and their offspring takes on Chinese customs.

The European quarter built on the left bank of the Singapore river covers an incidental area in the form semi-circle with a diameter of multiple kilometers formed by the wharf dock. This dock as well as the neighboring streets serve mainly for the business activities of the Europeans. Further inland the remaining parts of the European quarter cover the are up to the three hills that rise in the west of the city. On one of these hills called Government Hill stands the palace of the governor; on the hill south of it, just beyond the Singapore river, called Peel Hill lies Fort Canning, named in honor of the deceased vice-king of India and which includes the signal post which announces the arrival of the ships.

Interspersed with numerous luxurious garden this quarter with its nice houses, the numerous towers and steep roofs of the churches and the public buildings from the pier outwards offers a friendly view of the city. An English look has been impressed upon the buildings and the gardens. On the esplanade, an area of extended grass at the sea shore which is graced with a statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, are numerous tennis and cricket fields. Pretty one story houses with well tended gardens surround the esplanade where the elegant clubhouse of Gymkhana is also located. The cathedral and the government buildings are also not disavowing the style of their builders.

The Raffles museum which I visited first as soon as I had sent foot on the land disappointed me somewhat as the collections were neither quantitatively nor qualitatively up to my expectations. The zoological department is fairly incomplete. Only some representative birds of Malacca I did not know and a remarkably large crocodile that had been killed close to Singapore caught my attention. The ethnographic department is in a rather shabby condition.

Government House is around 45 km distant from the city center and lies, as stated previously, on Government hill in the middle of lovely gardens. To create one of the most beautiful gardens presents few difficulties: The next best jungle is thinned out, laid out with paths, the luxuriously growing nature left to its own devices and the splendid garden is complete.

The governor who had, as told, paid me a visit on board already in the morning received me in the elegantly decorated palace with the message that he had to depart still on the same day to Pulau Penang. This message seemed to trouble the Belgian consul general who was accompanying me and I too was astonished that the governor had to depart so soon after my arrival. Probably this sudden journey was in relation with government matters in connection with the cholera outbreak that could not be delayed.

The drive to the bungalow of the Belgian consul general offered an overview of Singapore’s location and gave me the opportunity to see some of the country mansions situated in a wide arc west of the city. These bungalows almost all built on hills whose slopes were ornamented with lovely gardens offer a refreshing stay to their occupants returning each evening from the government and business district of Singapore. At a considerable altitude above the sea level, these bungalows provide a great view from the city to the sea enlivened by ships, fresh clean air and the charm of tropical vegetation around the hospitable building. Green hills crowned by the gleaming white bungalows follow one another in rows for miles and extend this town of villas.

On the excellent roads that lead through the settlements drive funnily numerous small closed carriages drawn by a single pony. In the city itself, the so called jin rickshaws are used, usually abbreviated to rickshaws —- that is „man-power-wagon“, two-wheeled colorfullly painted small wagons similar to those we have seen in Colombo. Chinese coolies draw them. In the streets of Singapore they are rushing around without a break. There are 2200 rickshasws here and it is astonishing how quickly and over long distances the poor coolies are able to move this comfortable vehicle. Admittedly, a majority of the coolies will fall victim to the arduous transport service within a few years because the necessary exertion attacks the lungs to a high degree of these lamentable human „locomotives“.

At the Belgian consul general’s we took the refreshments with pleasure which the kind host of the house offered to us. As the intense heat had made us desire some welcome cooling. Refreshed we then examined more closely the rich and interesting collection of Malaysian headdresses which the consul general expertly explained to us. He finds time to collect and do practical ethnographic studies beside his varied works. M. de Bernard, who seems to be the consul of the whole world — at the moment he is representing no fewer than four states — knew to tell many interesting details about Singapore. Among other things he made us aware about the humidity of the climate — rain was an almost daily occurrence here — which accounts for the splendid vegetation of the island but causes many adversities for the inhabitants. A further negative point is the massive presence of termites which are commonly but wrongly called white ants. Often all household effects  fall victims to them. In fact the furniture in the bungalow showed noticeable signs of the pernicious activities of these insects. Thus even this island paradise like everything on earth has its dark side.

The  nearby botanical garden of Singapore visited next is a intelligently arranged but still young installation. Its rows of trees and plants promise to turn this place dedicated to science within a few years into a garden with much shade that will not only provide much education but also repose. In systematic order groups are formed besides a labyrinth that represent the vegetation of the Malaysian evergreen tropical region in various specimens, especially nearly all kinds of palms of this zone.

Connected with the botanical garden is also a small zoo that only houses representatives of a few but rare species of the fauna of the Indo-Malaysian subregion; thus a speckled tapir (Tapirus indicus), a tame animal that bound to a string was laying in the middle of the path and nosed at each visitor in a friendly manner. then there was a huge Orang-Utan of Borneo; multiple tiger-like marked cats that were completely new to me; Malayan honey bears; beautiful hornbills; a small jungle hen from Sumatra with a violet crest, herons, cassowaries etc.

Not far from here lies the park and the palace of the sultan of Johor which the pomp loving prince, a friend of architecture, has ordered to be constructed here in recent times — the palace was only completed two months ago.  The palace rises in the middle of the park on a commandeering hill that offers a beautiful panorama of the numerous gardens, parks and bungalows, on the whole crest of Singapore’s villa cities. The large square building in „mixed style“ is the work of a Malaysian architect; it has been laid out with a princely waste of space, equipped with electric lights and is completely most luxuriously furnished.

This sometimes abrupt combination of European and Oriental taste can be traced back to a special reason. Sultan Abu Bekr, who, it is known, tends to spend each summer in England or on the continent and especially repeatedly in our world-famous Karlsbad,  namely likes to bring home numerous objects from his travels which will ornament his palaces. These objects, though they may be valuable and beautiful , they do not fit in completely with the Oriental decoration of the palace chambers. Original, however, are the numerous ornamented elephant tusks that lie on the floor in all the rooms.

Even in the absence of the sultan his graciousness was on display in offering us champaign and coffee in splendid golden vessels in the palace, after which we returned to Singapore past the bungalows of the married English officers who each occupy their own nice home in a park-like area. When we came closer to the city, it was already so dark that the drive through the Chinese quarter turned out to be even more attractive and interesting than during the day. Even though the same lively activity was pulsating in the streets and houses, the same febrile actions but the countless colorful gleaming and twinkling lanterns and lamps that illuminated the shops, the Buddha temples, theaters and restaurants as clear as day. The moving crowds offered a both fascinating  and strange view. A special quality of this quarter is the niceness which rules here despite the numerous workshops and the many shops that offer fish and all other kinds of marine and terrestrial products by cooks and merchants.  Even though the cleanliness may only be superficial, it still offers an agreeable contrast to the atrocious dirt in all the native quarters of the Indian cities. The olfactory senses of the European are, however, affected in both locations in a both strange and not very joyous manner.

In the city I then visited two large shops which offered many ethnographic objects from the Malaysian islands but failed to come to an agreement with the merchants in term of the exceedingly high prices demanded, so that I returned on board without success.

Links

  • Location: Singapore
  • ANNO – on 06.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is playing a comedy „Magnetische Kuren“, while the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is performing the ballet „Die goldene Märchenwelt“.

 

At Sea to Singapore — Pulau Besar, 5 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

A few miles in front of the coastline of the Malacca peninsula we set our course so that we could without interruption see and enjoy both  the lovely view of the coast, the hills and mountains of the peninsula among which Ophir in  Johore rises to an altitude of 1175 m, and also the small groups of islands which lay alongside the course in front of the coastline. Even with unarmed eyes one was able to distinguish the luxurious plant decoration which covered the peninsula and the group of islands.

Numerous Malaysian fishing boats sailed on the calm sea whose emerald green color offered an effective contrast to the deep blue of the sky. The far distance that the Malaysian fishers dare to go out into the high sea with their canoes and the skill with which they operate in rough seas are remarkable. These canoes are almost even smaller than our „Sandolinen“ or two-seater; two men sit in each boat and move them forward with double oars; sometimes they even hoist a small sail. All around the sea was almost covered with such canoes whose crew curiously ogled with small piercing eyes  at the proudly passing mighty „Elisabeth“. The fishermen covered their heads with large straw hats shaped like a bell, while the rest of the dress was very deficient due to the heat and the occupation.

During the last days we have seen remarkably few ships, but today a few steam ships came into view.

As I planned only to arrive the next morning in Singapore and thus had a few hours to spare, I decided to visit one of the islands alongside the coast. The map was consulted and soon an island was found called Besar which is part of the Water Islands, South-east of the formerly important trading city of Malacca, the destination of the expedition. I solicited participants and within a short time had assembled a group of nature lovers and hunters, besides me and my gentlemen and also Sanchez, Bourguignon, Regner and Mallinarich, to explore the island.

The Water Islands are a group of smaller islands, whose largest is Besar. They are all covered in rich vegetation and according to the map all uninhabited; only on Pulau Undan, the most outward of these islands stands a lighthouse.

After „Elisabeth“ had anchored about half a mile in front of the island, the expedition corps set out in two boats and landed in a small bay which was filled with coral reefs and only through a small passage we could land.

At the shore I had the gentlemen assemble in a line, between each shooter stood two sailors; Myself I wanted to be at the center of the line, Sanchez and Regner however were at the respective wings — in this way we expected to cross the island. This was a beautiful plan; soon however it became clear that such a hunt would have been a splendid undertaking in the beet fields at home but was impossible to execute on a tropical island. As soon as we had advanced a bit we were met with insurmountable obstacles as the growth of the vegetation in its richness and density made a further advance nearly impossible.

Those who have not personally seen the rampant growth of the local trees, bushes, herbs and lianas created by nature’s elementary power can not properly imagine it as pictures will only offer a bland representation of reality.  Everywhere there were tree trunks laying on the ground, victims of the elements and the slowly choking activity of the lianas. They were covered in moss, ferns and orchids, above these witnesses of the never-ending destruction various trees were arching their high leafy canopies; lianas thick as an arm connected, like snakes, one tree with the next in a deadly embrace; Tree ferns as well as bamboo, banana trees and rhododendron trees formed a dense closed undergrowth, in which every step had to gained with the knife. I enjoyed the view and the opulence which attracted me and made me stop in the heavy work of creating a path through the jungle.

It was indeed very difficult to advance; namely at 45° Celsius and under the burning rays of the sun that shine down nearly vertically. In the struggle with the terrain which we fought with a knife in the hand, the sweat was running from the front as if we had been in a steam bath. Soon all sense of direction was lost as well, the order was broken, the beautiful line was interrupted, the sailors did not walk between us but behind us and everyone of our party chose his path as well as it was possible.

The animal wildlife was sparsely represented; only a few birds were audible. Only rarely could one see one in the impenetrable sea of leaves. Still I managed to bag a fruit dove whose feathers glittered in all colors of the rainbow and a Asian Koel (Eudynamis honorata), while Regner shot a splendid Malay yellow-breasted sun-bird (Arachnechthra pectoralis).

In order not to lose the connection between us we had to shout continuously to prevent a full separation and answer the calls. Finally we were all convinced that further attempts were useless and pushed in order to circle around the island towards the coast where we met Mallinarich who had separated himself from us earlier and went with two men to catch crabs, sponges, mollusks and other representatives of the maritime fauna.

Soon we found a track in the sand which according to all our assembled experienced trackers had to be that of a soliped, and declared it to be of the species Equus caballus. This meant that, as horses were not native to the island, we were close to humans, so that the island was not at all uninhabited as we had assumed from our map study. A confirmation of this fact determined by our exploration was our discovery of a coeur eight oars under a large tree which removed all remaining illusions that we were on a virgin island.

And truly, after we had taken another turn, there stood Malay fishermen in front of us who looked puzzled upon the European intruders but then offered water in a friendly manner to us and our sailors which they drew from a deep fountain. Some miserable reef huts on which hung drying served as homes to the fishermen in whose proximity were two dear brindled ponies which naturally explained the puzzle of the tracks. Around the huts, the islanders had burned down the jungle to gain space for some sort of cultivation.

Who can describe our surprise when we discovered, following a small path, two Buddha temples and a small Chinese settlement opposite them. The temples as well as the largest of the houses were constructed out of bricks painted sky-blue.  Close by stood multiple reef huts erected upon stakes according to Malay custom. In the shadow of large trees, this settlement made a very inviting impression upon us, so that we accepted our failure of exploring Besar willingly in the expectation that we might be offered a refreshment. With a friendly air the immigrated children of the Heavenly Kingdom advanced toward us. A very happy and garrulous old Chinese woman seemed to be especially pleased about the unexpected visit.

The Chinese emigrate, as is well-known, in large masses from their home country and inundate all countries of the world in West and East. That we had met these brothers with queues in Calcutta was not surprising; but it was strange to see even this remote island be an object of the Chinese commercial interest.

The people brought chairs and as a very welcome refreshment, zwieback and a delicious tea, and each of us drank some cups of this beverage, while the brave old woman smiling and never tiring brought out new portions. When we finally were ready to depart and offered a few coins to show our appreciation of the hospitality, the Chinese refused all thanks and were not to be moved to accept any payment despite our insistence. Finally Clam helped us out of our embarrassment by presenting flowers to the old woman with an elegant deep bow. She put them with a loud laugh into her hair. Sanchez gave the island hostess his colored belt after we departed with a hearty handshake.

We moved further along the shore. Three blue and white colored collared kingfishers (Halcyon chloris), as well as multiple specimens of a species of little mangrove bittern (Butoroides javanica) were bagged by us. Palm leaves which I had cut on the way were intended to serve as decoration on our afterdeck. Soon the shore changed its character and instead of the smooth sand there were large round boulders over which we had to jump or like equilibrists we had to climb over them and balance on them. Some of these stony obstacles were so moist that we could not get a clear grip but could only laboriously peg on them. The attempt to find a path in the interior of the island was foiled by the terrain which was even more impenetrable and thus we climbed, crawled and slid in goose steps one after another. The clothes and shoes were soon in a deplorable state; the tide was rising ever higher: the roaring waves crashed against the rock — and finally we were all laying in the water at a particularly difficult crossing of one rock to the next.

After various dangerous actions we finally arrived at the spot where our boats were anchored and we returned soon on board of „Elisabeth“, very tired in torn and wet clothes where we quickly went to our cabins and only reappeared on deck late in the evening for the dinner.

Then the voyage to Singapore was resumed. Late in the evening the fire at Pulau Pisang became visible.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Singapore
  • ANNO – on 05.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is performing „Faust“, the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater „Margarethe (Faust)“.

At Sea to Singapore, 4 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

Gorgeous weather again and a calm sea. In the morning the island of Pulu Penang, also called Prince of Wales Island and part of the British Straits Settlements, appeared. I had originally had the intention to visit it and stay there for a day to learn about its vegetation and explore new bird species. As I was assured that the surrounding of Singapore offered both at equal quality and I was eager to reach the Malaysian archipelago and Java as soon as possible, I gave up on this enterprise and we stayed on the course to Singapore.

From time to time we saw the nebulous profile of the Malacca peninsula and the blueish contours of its mountains.

For the first time we met one of the small Malaysian sailing boats called „Proas“ that sail from Sumatra to the Malaysian peninsula and back for the purpose of exchanging goods or fishing. Very strange is the construction of these crude vehicles and especially its rigging. The sails consist of small, oblong red-brown straw mats which are fastened on poles. If these sails have to be shortened, the sailors collapse the structure of mats like an accordion. Towards 4 o’clock in the afternoon the volcanic cone in the midst of the strait of Malacca,  called Pulu Jarak,  became visible, also a good naval point of orientation. We bore away to backboard to have a closer look. It rises in its conical form to 152 m out of the sea and is covered down to sea level with rich tropical vegetation. The crest coronets of the trees were very dramatically illuminated by the setting sun.

Numerous driftwood, namely palm tree wood, was swimming on the waves — trophies the sea hat seized from the land in its relentless onslaught.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Singapore
  • ANNO – on 04.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers. The Neue Freie Presse includes a report of FF visiting the maharaja of Jepore dated 11 March (PDF).
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is performing „Frau Susanne“, the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater „Die Rantzau“.

At Sea to Singapore, 3 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

The sky was very cloudy and a rainsquall was pouring down in heavy drops, drumming against the deck but quickly evaporate in the heat. Church service was therefore held in the battery.

Still during the morning appeared the Sayer islands, Salang island off the Panga peninsula, in the afternoon the Brothers islands became visible. All these small islands seem to be of volcanic origin, viewed through a spyglass, and thickly covered with tropical vegetation.

During the day we observed tide rips or stream currents that are very common in the Strait of Malacca; these are wave movements that are caused by counter-currents that move in stripes across the otherwise quiet sea and make the steering much more difficult as they cause the ship to drift from its course. I might compare these currents to a quickly flowing watercourse in a sea that flings out foaming, dancing waves at the surface.

An outstanding number of flying fishes, large schools of dolphins as well as fish similar to tuna were mingling. The latter ones pursued, jumping out of the water, smaller fish while these in turn were followed by large birds similar to common dabs that I could not determine more precisely.

The evening was tepid and mild, so that I whiled away an hour on the bridge before I went to sleep, fanned by the the cool evening air, lost in the view of the southern starry sky which I consider by the way inferior in diversity, beauty and splendor of the zodiacs to the northern sky.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Singapore
  • ANNO – on 03.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is performing „Wilddiebe“, the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater „Die Goldene Märchenwelt“.

At Sea to Singapore, 2 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

Already at 5 o’clock in the morning I left my cabin and went to the bridge to enjoy the spectacle of the setting full moon and the concurrent rise of the  daystar. Floating clouds in the sky embellished the view by their grotesque forms and strange colors.

In the morning — we celebrate Easter Sunday — a church service whose celebration on the open sea always impresses me deeply: the altar on deck, overhung by our standard; in front a handful of people, at the mercy of the elements,  solely trusting in God; the solemn sound of music and the muted mysterious rushing sound of the eternal infinite sea.

After the church service I devoted the whole day to work, namely to letters to be sent home.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Singapore
  • ANNO – on 02.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is closed until 2nd April. The k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater is playing „Die goldene Märchenwelt“.

At Sea to Singapore, 1 April 1893

Hinterlasse eine Antwort

Splendid weather, the sea as smooth as glass, most severe heat. Even though I stayed only for a short time in the engine room to which I had gone down, I nevertheless returned on deck drenched in sweat. The heroism shown by our brave stokers who are only relieved every four hours and do their hard work in a blazing space is truly admirable.

Spouts of water rising in a great distance indicated the presence of two sperm whales.

In the afternoon towards 4 o’clock small Table Island, the northernmost island of the Andamans, with its lighthouse became visible at a distance of four miles on starboard, while we passed through Preparis South Canal. The island is, as far as I could distinguish with the spyglass covered with rich vegetation, namely palm trees and, usually uninhabited, only serves fishermen as a temporary quarter.

In the evening we enjoyed a splendid full moon that illuminated the sea and our snow-white „Elisabeth“ in a magical light and mirrored itself in the slightly sparkling waves. For a long time I listened on the bridge to the songs of our crew that was convened on the iron deck.

Late in the evening appeared on backboard, emerging like a ghost out of the sea,  the 710 m high volcanic island Narcondam, a precious point of orientation in navigation.

Links

  • Location: At Sea to Singapore
  • ANNO – on 01.04.1893 in Austria’s newspapers.
  • The k.u.k. Hof-Burgtheater is closed until 2nd April, the k.u.k. Hof-Operntheater until 1st April.